Posts Tagged ‘Surf’

  Photo by Jena Cumbo I used to have a friend down the block who gave me that extra push, the cheery text I needed at 6:30 am to suit up when it was still chilly, and the thought of pulling a 5’4 over my weak, winter body had me hesitating and rationalising the, nah. The boots, whatever. The gloves… UGH. “Just for an hour,” She’d say and pump up the positive talk. And we’d stay for two. That is no more, and now it’s all up to me to […]

Far from a quiver, yet I need to let everyone know that I now have a Dewey Weber Professional, 9’2.” My second board! Thank you, Kristeli! My friend and previous rider of the vintage classic called the board “The Fairy” for its beautiful, pastel, and cream waves in the glassing. A new nickname has come about for me, though — Big Mamma. I’m a small person, and she is a big board! My mid-length is an 8’6” Faktion. The extra 8 inches of length and heavy fiberglass are a whole […]

Hesitating, I walked delicately towards the crowd of black suits standing in clusters on the sand at 94th Street. Why did I feel so nervous? I saw my friend Elise. She’s 9 years old. We started talking about Surf Camp and how excited she is to start it up again in June. Photo By Frith Fraser. This would be my first memorial paddle-out. Our friend Sean organized everyone. He explained what would happen for the newbies… me. We’d paddle out, following his lead, a bit past the jetty. We’d embrace […]

Bodysurfers rely on the natural power of the waves to propel them, creating a strong connection to the ocean and its energy. It’s an organic and unadulterated way to ride the waves. Witness this unique link to the water – tomorrow, Saturday, September 9th at the 2023 Rockaway Beach Bodysurf Underground (RBBU) Competition. The first heat rides at 10 a.m. Get your blankets, beach chairs, and bathing suits, and pack a lunch for the day-long event. Set up on the sand at The Box (East jetty at Beach 84th Street). […]

My first session with my new 8’4 Faktion shaped by Hawk, at Beach 90th (Rockaway Beach) I’ve been long-term borrowing an 8’0 Torq. I’ve learned so much on it this past year. I really like how it rides. I have a sentimental connection with it, but I’ve been drifting towards a change… I put the word out and my friend saw a board for sale on Instagram that looked like a fit for me. Strictly Surf (@strickly_surf) is three hours out in Amagansett, Long Island. We contacted the shop and a […]

It was my first time in the water alone. I’d been surfing for a couple of months at this point. Kristi, my surf coach, felt I was ready. It was 1-2 feet, about eight seconds apart, and clean. I was at 91 on my borrowed Wavestorm, drifting out of the lineup with the offshore wind. The early morning summer sun on my face was just right. I felt free and independent. But I wasn’t alone. There was a dolphin! A moment later there was another. Then, I see 10 dolphins […]

I had three car situations happen in the past two weeks. The car struggle is real. I don’t know much about them. I’m bad at maintaining them – renewing registration, tickets, oil change (how do you read that sticker?), random missing license plate, cleaning it, etc. I do know, I need my 2005 Chrysler Pacifica to transport plants in the spring, to buy 12 foot skeletons on a whim, to go thrift store shopping and non-negotiable… to see my mother once a week on Long Island. The first car chronicle…  […]

I hadn’t surfed in three weeks. It felt wrong. I didn’t like it. It wasn’t even the cold that held me back. I accepted a long-term freelance gig that’s been all-consuming. It’s the type of schedule where you fall behind on life – laundry, making the bed, no food in the fridge, Christmas decorations all over the living room floor. I’ve skipped needed showers, skipped brushing my hair (well, in fairness I rarely brush my hair), and skipped writing my column (eek). I’ve been living on a screen, on Slack, […]

“Did you get Anna’s wetsuit yet? Thursday looks good,” Kristi’s text read. “Oh boy, I guess this is really happening.” I say to myself. The anxiety hits me. In the abstract, I’ve been interested all these years in surfing but I never thought I’d be physically or mentally strong enough to pursue it. My friend Kristi had been gently nudging me to get in the water. This was back in May. I’m a people pleaser and I didn’t want to disappoint her. I thought she felt it would be something […]